🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.